The Journal
Stories from the Nile
Notes on Egypt, its temples and its river — travel dispatches for the unhurried.
Karnak before the crowds
The gates open at six. For the first hour the Hypostyle Hall belongs to whoever bothered to set an alarm — and the light does something it will not do again all day.
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Kom Ombo, the double temple
One temple, two of everything: two entrances, two sanctuaries, two gods who could not share. The symmetry is the whole story.
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